AT THE time of Mary, Queen of Scots in the 16th century, a cloth was manufactured in Tillicoultry that became known as Tillicoultry serge.

Although originally made in the village, the same kind of cloth began to be made elsewhere in the country, but it had to be known as Tillicoultry serge no matter where it was manufactured.

Serge was, according to the Statistical Account of 1792 by Rev William Osborne 'a course woollen cloth' and 'a species of shaloon, having 'worsted' warp and 'yarn' waft'.

The weavers who made this cloth were known as websters and they were mentioned in the old parish records.

The origins of the serge have been lost, but it is thought it may have been started by Flemish refugees.

David I accepted a good number of these people into his kingdom of Scotland from England, where in 1155 the English king Henry II had driven them out, after Henry I had encouraged them into his realm.

They were welcomed in Scotland, and it is possible that woollen manufacturing was introduced into this part of the country by some of them.

Wool was a readily available commodity by the 16th century with sheep roaming along the Ochil Hills, and shepherds keeping them in check.

At times, when there was not enough wool from these sheep, the gudewife would travel to the larger towns for a stone of wool which she carried back to her home on her shoulders, 'and afterwards spun into yarn in the intervals of her household duties'.

Once the cloth was ready it was sold at an average price of 1s per yard.

According to Osborne, by the 18th century, the manufacturing of the serge had moved to Alva but was still known as Tillicoultry serge.

He said it was 'much regretted' that more attention was not given to the 'manufacture in the place where it was invented, or at least brought to the greatest perfection'.

Around the mid-18th century, 'a serge web from Alva would not sell in the market, while one from Tillicoultry remained unsold'.

The minister did not know what the quality of the serge was by this time as the stamp master kept 'no list.

He supposes however that he stamps annually 7000 ells (a unit of measurement) of serge, and an equal quantity of plaiding.' Some of the local weavers were also now turning to making muslin, but that industry was in its infancy at the time.

Tillicoultry serge eventually fell out of favour, but woollen manufacturing took off in the 19th century.